Upside Down Notebook

The road from Argentina to Paraguay was blocked by “Indians demanding land” in a town called “Resistencia.” That’s what the bus driver said when I arrived here a couple of weeks ago. In Ciudad del Este, Paraguay, most of the cars had tinted windows, the private security in front of shops had loaded guns, and [...]

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The city streets sweat, the subway is an oven and even the rooftops wait for a breeze. It’s summer in Buenos Aires and hottest place is the “Paraguayan embassy.” In order to get a visa to go to Paraguay we were told to wake up early, take this subway to that subway to this block, [...]

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