Palms. Sea. Palms. Guns. Palms. Heat. More palms…and then a tense calm. This is how it feels from Ceiba to Tocoa and its surroundings, on the only paved road and in the many small shops, a place where people may see something, but say nothing. This is where the dead lived and suffered from the conflict that has gone on for more than 15 years in the Lower Aguán region of Honduras.